這回剛到米蘭就和司机打賭,我說隔天義大利會下一整天雨,包括咱們要去的里古利亞海岸: Santa Margherita 和Portofino兩村! 我的依據是世界級的新聞台
BBC+CNN+APP+ATT….的,一定準! Giorgio
– 我們的義大利司机呢,則不慌不忙地舉起他的左手,用舌頭沾濕食指伸到窗外,然後煞有其事的樣子,一邊看著天,一邊唸唸有詞的說…umm …最高溫…27度,降雨机率…Zero…上午!
我雖不相信食指神功,但舅舅(我們給 Giorgio的封號)說他在 Liguria 海岸出生,在Barlolo長大,我們這個行程的天氣本來就是歸他管! 最後咱們三人:導遊,司机和我 – 三方通話討論之後,由我下決定,把原來上午參觀熱納亞王宮(Palazzo Real)和下午搭船去 Portofino 的時間對調! 不敢跟老天爺賭天氣,我捨棄的是曾經看過,真的蠻美的 Ligurian Sunset! 但50%:50% 的Sunset 和Rain-set,很嗆素嗆素,早點返回城裡,至少可以避開週日返回城裡的車潮,入境問Slow food, 悠閒享用牛排+美酒!
幸好改上午出海,因為登 Portofino 上的伯朗堡(Brown Castle)時還出太陽,才吃完午餐去搭船時,整個海灣已經風起浪湧,烏雲密佈,等回到熱納亞時就立刻下起雨來! Giorgio you’re right! Giorgio you’re pro! 舅舅你的食指神功厲害!
那晚在前年才開張,現在已小有名氣的Retro 餐廳吃飯,我不想吃那一客1,400 gm 的牛排,年青的老闆 Francesco 除了給我弄了盤超讚的手工麵,還又偷偷加了一道私房菜給我…"偷偷"...是因為那一餐一人已經要60歐了,若要再加上他這道私房菜,另配個酒...他說一人還得加25歐/人!
不就是Carpaccio di pesce生魚片嘛! Ah no! Francesco 說,Thissss
fisheee…I caughtttt ittt myeselvvvv thissse morningggg! You taste itttte! Only
for you!
你自己去釣的? Si! I show you the picture…哇! 真的耶!
Where did you get it? Not far from
Portofino.
You got a boat? Yes, a small one.
So you’re also a fisherman? Mmmm..yes,
sometimes…
What kind of fish is this? In Italian it’s
called “umbrina” but I can tell you that this one is big!
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